Saltillo's sarape: textile jewel that deserves to be protected

Consultants urge their official registration with IMPI

Pese a ser un ícono de identidad en la capital coahuilense el sarape de Saltillo no cuenta con un registro de Indicación Geográfica ante el Instituto Mexicano de la Propiedad Industrial (IMPI) que garantice la protección de su diseño para evitar que su diseño pueda ser utilizado sin restricciones para su producción industrial en serie por marcas de ropa transnacionales, amenazando su origen y hechura artesanal.

For this reason, Hilde Sofía Martínez Dávila and Juan Manuel González Zapata, graduates of the Faculty of jurisprudence of the Autonomous University of Coahuila (UA de C) and consultants on industrial and intellectual property, agree that such registration becomes urgent.

"there is a recent problem that has been developing even doctrinally, which is cultural appropriation. Transnational brands arrive and take designs from the original peoples of Mexico about their handicrafts and start using them, so they begin to profit economically, "said González Zapata.

'in the case of geographical indications, products are distinguished because they have a cultural roots in localities, such as sarape. Unlike the Designation of origin, there is no natural link to the space or geography of the place, but it is a cultural link that has generated prestige or added value to the product that denotes exclusivity, "Martínez Dávila explained.

According to academics, such a register would even pay for the creation of an official register of sarape-weaver teachers as the only ones authorized to create and market this garment on the basis of wool yarn and natural pigments.

'the Geographical indication allows to protect that sign of additional value and prestige that a product has because it is produced in a given region. If the Geographical indication is given, we can assume the quality and prestige that they have because they are manufactured by Saltillan artisans, "said the interviewee.

"the Federal Law for the Protection of Industrial Property establishes fines up to 22 million pesos. Even when there is a Geographical indication, it is less likely that a transnational will take the risk of appropriating the culture of one of these regions, "he added.

In this order, they called on the governments of Saltillo and Coahuila to carry out this procedure, both of which are the ones indicated for this purpose.

Weaving tradition

In addition to his industrial protection, Francisco Javier Reyes Luna, master sarapes weaver with more than 40 years dedicated to its elaboration, believes that to protect the sarape it is essential that the Saltillans be interested in knowing its history and making.

"the most important thing is the interest that the population must have, that the people who live in this city are interested in knowing their history and know how to do it. Saltillo's sarape is a Mexican emblematic piece, every sarape that is made is unique and we are talking about Saltillo sarapes being made since the 18th century, "he said.

In this sense, he stated that there is no better way to preserve the Sarape de Saltillo than to know how to weave, so he invited those interested to approach the Escuela del Sarape "La Favorita", located in Simón Bolívar 608, historical center, to begin their preparation as artisan Obrajero Tejedor de Sarape or Tintorero with Natural products, disciplines that have official validity before the Ministry of Public Education.

"the best weavers are in Saltillo, weavers from the rest of the country have taken only the old saplers as a reference to copy them," concluded the teacher of this institution. (Omar Soto / El Heraldo)