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Sustainability and creativity are the pillars of these 14 promising brands

(Re) Vogueuna New wave of designers from around the world, from Bolivia to Japan, is making sustainability integral of its creative process.

For Vogue

Photography by Eddie Wrey

The future of fashion sustainability looks promising thanks to these brands:

By Walid, Reino Unido

Walid Al Damirji structured his By Walid brand around a single principle: not wasting.‘Otherwise, it would be a disrespect,’ says the designer on old tissues such as curtains, vintage clothes and tapestries that transforms blouses, jackets and even home items such as pillows and bedspreads.When it comes to finding these materials, when Damirji says: ‘I don't leave stone without stirring: auctions, vintage fairs, carbelter sales...whatever'.His deep care made him one of the first in the luxury fashion industry to take upcycling and sustainability seriously.-Steff Yotka

Mozh Mozh, Perú

Mozhdeh Matin launched its brand in 2015, he explains, to 'work with local artisans and preserve their techniques', motivated by the concept of circular economy and, indeed, its colorful and traditional pieces, dresses and accessories -with alpaca, cotton and cotton threadsalso native wool of Peru- have launched that wheel.‘All artists are inspired by their surroundings,’ he says, ‘and the climatic crisis is pushing many to create ingenious ways of being more sustainable’.

Maison ARTC, Marruecos

Maison Artc is the five -year creation of the Israeli Moroccan designer Artsi Ifrach, who works in the most sustainable way possible in his Marrakech workshop, combining his wide collection of old -century old clothing with local tissues, such as hand -woven blankets in theAtlas mountains.The ‘how can’ is crucial: 'sustainability and industry, production, fast fashion...None of that is sustainable, unless you do high sewing, "says Ifrach.Your solution: unique collection pieces designed to keep the past alive in the present.-Mark Holgate

Bode, Estados Unidos

When Emily Adams Bode broke into the male fashion scene in 2017 with her recycled padded jackets, the youthful form and the wink to the crafts resonated instantly, but their reverence for the objects and stories of the past also moved to the bedspreads, clothes, tablecloths and blankets.Since then, he has opened a tailor store next to his store on Hester Street in New York, where customers can take their clothes to repair or 'preserve them', as Bode says: 'We are teaching our community how clothes can lastduring generations'.-Emily Farra

Marine Serre, Francia

"The regeneration process is complex, unique and meticulous," says Marine Serre, whose brand balances the use of eco-responsible fibers with the reuse of vintage t-shirts, leather jackets, jeans and even kitchen cloths to turn them into new garments.Serre built the dress that is seen here from scarves found in French markets, draping them and wrapping them to create a classic silhouette from unexpected materials.Use the old to do the new is not easy, especially for a designer who produces at his scale: ‘we had to rebuild the entire production chain,’ he says.‘Ecofuturismo is a way of living, a way of acting and a way to inspire.We want things to make sense ’.

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Conner Ives, Reino Unido

Sustentabilidad y creatividad son los pilares de estas 14 marcas prometedoras

At least 75 percent of the designs of this graduate from Central Saint Martins are made with vintage, waste or sustainable materials."It's always about finding new materials to use and new processes to develop," says Iives.‘It is a constant and hungry evolution’.The designer, originally from Bedford (New York), says that living in London has influenced his way of searching and using second -hand materials: 'When I arrived in London, I spent most of the time with my friends going to second storeshand ', says IVES.‘I really enjoy hunting’.

Morphine, Italia

Morphine is an innovative second -hand store brand based in Reggio Emilia that sells articles by vintage designers - you think of Comme des Garçons of the 90s and McQueen from the early 90s- and recycled pieces through its own line, Compendium01: Pazzesca.‘Our process consists of awakening and giving life to the products that this industry has produced and forgotten,’ says Morphine's project director Sasha Payton.'We produce unique articles by customizing and re -assembling garments, fabrics and threads from waste and remains of the Italian supply chain' '.-C.A

Ka-Sha, India

‘Change through design’ is a kind of mantra for Karishma Shahani Khan and his Ka-Sha brand, based in Maharashtra (India).Other important words for her and her work: human, collaborate, hope, teamwork.The artisans and the people with whom they work throughout India are as important for the history of Ka-sha as hand-dyed natural fabrics and design methods without waste: 'We use clothing to celebrate crafts and handmade techniques, new and old, 'explains Shahani Khan.The brand capsule project, Heart To Hat, occurs entirely with tissue and garments for landfills, ‘inspired by the indigenous ideology of reusing, reuse and claiming’.-AND.F.

Duran Lantink, Holanda

Some designers have inspirational boards.Duran Lantink, based in Amsterdam, on the other hand, creates some of his designs after tracking the city during the ritual on Tuesday night, when its inhabitants leave things on the street to take others."I never understood the use of new materials when there are so many beautiful things around me," says Lantink, who began to design as a teenager, cutting the Gaultier and Margiela that her mother no longer used.More recently, he has used a vintage dress by Balmain, a leather coat of the 60s donated by the grandmother of a friend and a regiment of army sweaters for his three -year mark: 'You take a lot of clothes and start searching', says Lantink laughing.

Yuima Nakazato, Japón

In the Tokyo Japanese tokyo workshop Yuima Nakazato, the tissues of responsible origin are part of the history of design as well as the silhouette.For the autumn of 2021, Nakazato commemorated the 10th anniversary of its brand with a collection that included pieces made with recycled leathers, organic cotton, hand -dyed laces with Japanese natural indigo (a process called Aizome), along with others that combined the Nishijin-ori -a traditional tissue of the kimonos- with a synthetic of plant origin inspired by spider silk.The reason for being nakazato: ‘Make this world a better place through garments’.-M.M.

Lagos Space Programme, Nigeria

The work of Adeju Thompson for Lagos Space Program moves between the past and the present and, above all, is based on a mission: fashion is the vehicle through which the designer, who studied in Wales and England, has chosen to exploreboth its non -binary identity and its Nigerian inheritance Yoruba.‘We are aware of our responsibility as inhabitants of the planet and we are very aware of unsustainable waste and production practices, '' says Thompson, which specifies that all its pieces are manufactured locally.They often work with pre -colonial silhouettes and collaborate with expert artisans who use indigenous artisanal techniques - like the natural dye with an indigo - that they adapt, making them advance in time: 'My ancestors left so much,' says Thompson, 'I think they hoped thatWe continued telling these stories and building about what they left '.-Laird Borrelli-Person

Rave Review, Suecia

For Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück, by Rave Review, the way to a responsible future goes through the past.From the beginning, the couple has worked only with existing materials, focusing especially on home textiles -including blankets, printed sheets and curl towels -with which they make unique pieces: 'It is very nice to work with these fabrics and,In a way, it feels more 'new' to work in this way than to redesign existing fashion, 'says Bergqvist.Designers often say that, as their fabrics have previous stocks, their work is nostalgic by default, but it is the way in which these Swedes filter their work through their own memories of childhood and their contemporary obsessions what is causing the praise.-L.B.P.

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Juan de La Paz, Bolivia

Juan de la Paz was founded in 2009 by designers Juan Carlos Pereira and Andrés Jordan, who collaborate with indigenous artisans of Bolivia and Peru to create their vibrant designs: 'We learn from the ancestral knowledge of these communities to take care of Mother Earth when making fashion', says Pereira.The garments - the majority with the characteristic fringes of the brand - are handmade with recycled or donated clothes and discarded tissues (the line is also made by commission and practices the zero residue).Both designers affirm that being Bolivians makes sustainability essential and obvious: 'The Latin American continealternative materials, collaborates with indigenous communities and values crafts'.

Vitelli, Italia

Vitelli production is composed in all waste of the knitting tissue industry, many of which would go to the landfills, which are worked on traditional machine tissues or are drilled with needles to create the patented felt materialby the brand - Dominate Doomboh - that becomes handmade, raw and tactile pieces.‘The Atelier within my study is called the theater of organic fabric,’ says Mauro Simionato, founder and creative director of Vitelli, ‘every day we met at Atelier and created, in a strange way, in unison’.Its main source of inspiration: the Italian and Post-Hippie 'counterculture movement that formed around the Cosmic Club of the Adriatic Riviera in the late 70s and early 80s.Vitelli has taken this local scene ‘as a model of how to participate -and possibly inspire -the current world cosmic scene’ -l.B.P.

In this article: styling, Poppy Kain;hairstyle, Shiori Takahashi;Makeup, Lynsey Alexander.

Article originally published in Vogue Us, Vogue.com

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