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Liberto, Privata, Amarras: what happened to the posh brands that swept the eighties?

80's clothing

They were the emblem of a wealthy youth, but they disappeared overnight. This is how they are today (those that remain)

Miguel Angel Bargueno

It was as much a part of the college landscape in the late 1980s and early 1990s as mus games and beer minis (and, in some cases, notes). We refer to a certain aesthetic, quite conventional, that came to put things in their place as far as fashion is concerned after the nonsense of the new wave and the crudeness of heavy; or perhaps it was an intermediate point, claimed by the younger brothers who had lived neither one thing nor the other.

The fact is that the classrooms and the adjacent bars were filled with light-tinted jeans, cable-knit sweaters and boat shoes, in an explosion of proud pijerío built on brands that functioned as passwords: if you didn't know them, you weren't part of the clan . Until one fine day, those appreciated labels stopped being seen. We analyze why their popularity decreased and what has become of them.

freedman

Why did you like it so much? It was the first national firm to introduce “stone washing”. Liberto Buenos jeans began to be manufactured in Spain in 1985, under license from the French firm Liberto. The "Buenos" served to distinguish them from the barrage of imitations that arrived from the neighboring country. Of its most desired models, the Cody for boys and the Sister Cody for girls, a million units were sold in one year.

What has become of her? It lost steam by being left in no man's land between low cost jeans and luxury brands. “The world changed and Liberto did not”, summarizes Laurent Layani, CEO of Ultra Five, the company that currently owns the currency. Today Liberto tries to seduce nostalgics with his nationally-made garments and collaborating with designers such as Maya Hansen.

The Charro

Why did you like it so much? Made in Italy in fashion always has a pull. Manufactured since 1974 in the town of Gallarate (Varese, Italy), from there the CMF company distributed them all over the world. The rose that crowns its logo and was sewn on the fifth front pocket "speaks of a Wild West attitude, of passion, escape and freedom," says Paolo Vessella, owner of the brand.

Liberto, Privata, Amarras: ¿qué fue de las marcas pijas que arrasaban en los ochenta?

What has become of her? In the mid-nineties CMF closed, and the firm wandered aimlessly shared by multiple and indecisive owners. Vessella, sole owner at present, now sells updated classic models and new ones (for 99 euros) only through his web store.

bonaventure

Why did you like it so much? They represented the "French touch" of posh fashion. The label on the waistband was metallic, a detail that for some reason gave the product cachet and made its buyer feel special, who was overjoyed when the plate set off the alarms of the security arches.

What has become of her? Like any aspirational item, it ceased to be so when imitations flooded the markets (not only because they were issued there but because they were carried to street vendors). In 2015 they were reborn by the Valladolid textile group Creaciones Nicolás, which launched a new collection and recovered the mythical Brutus model.

Chevignon

Why did you like it so much? Unlike other brands, it was established without publicity, only through word of mouth. The jeans, only for boys, were high-waisted (as established by the eighties canons) and had very masculine patterns and resistant fabrics. They also hit him with his aviator jackets, baseball jackets and aged leather jackets.

What has become of her? It went into decline due to "the arrival in the men's clothing market of many fast fashion brands that offered lower quality products at a very attractive price," explains Dorothée Charveriat, head of communication for Chevignon in France. Her current proposal is based on betting on craftsmanship: each leather jacket requires two hours of assembly and more than 152 steps, they say from the brand. Since last winter they have also been designing jackets for girls.

private

Why did you like it so much? They were those simple sweaters, with rhombuses, with the triangle on the arm: in order to show off, it was never as necessary as in the eighties to wear a sweater in summer in case it cooled down. The brand (originally Privat) was born in Catalonia in 1925, recycling work clothes.

What has become of her? The heirs of the founder continue to breathe oxygen into the firm: they distribute the jerseys through different points of sale throughout Spain and put them on sale on their website at an average price of 70 euros. Attentive to the sensibility of the moment, they underline the ecological nature of their garments.

Moorings

Why did you like it so much? Water sports have always been synonymous with good economic position and, by association, also its aesthetics. The Amarras sweatshirts and t-shirts, which began to be sold in 1979, were successful for their huge logo (a sailor's knot) printed on the chest, indicating that their wearer could have a yacht anchored in the marina. Even Julio Iglesias used them.

What has become of her? After disappearing from the map for several years, in 2012 he opened a store in Madrid, which closed not long after. Those that are advertised on second-hand sales portals between individuals fly.

Peter Gomez

Why did you like it so much? They were down jackets designed for the mountains that suddenly began to be seen in nightclubs, irrefutable proof that whoever wore them was a regular on the Baqueira ski slopes. They became highly coveted pieces for friends of the alien. They were sold at the El Igloó store, very close to the Cuatro Caminos roundabout in Madrid, founded by the illustrious Pedro Gómez, cross-country ski champion.

What has become of her? Wearing a down jacket to go out is no longer cool, among other things because the average temperature in winter has risen a couple of degrees since the eighties. Currently they are valued almost as collector's items, asking for them in second-hand stores up to 300 euros.

Rules

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